In the city that never sleeps, change is a constant. Sometime the more things change we look towards the classics. The Pierre, on the doorstep of Central Park is one such classic. But change has come to the Pierre recently, with the opening of Perrine.
TML hasn’t been lucky enough to dine at Perrine but we do love talking about great restaurants both here and abroad.
Auguste Escoffier, known in his lifetime as ‘the Chef of Kings and the King of Chefs’, he revolutionized French cooking in the late 19th and early 20th century. His techniques and recipes are still the backbone of French cuisine. Chef Escoffier created the lavish menu for the opening of the Pierre in 1930.
Perrine is a reflection of the Pierre’s very rich culinary history. The classically trained Ashfer Biju, a veteran of Taj Hotels now wears the tallest toque at the Pierre as Executive Chef. Chef Biju’s menu follows the seasons and his menu reinterprets many of the dishes from the early years of the Pierre.
The substantial menu runs from old-school appetizers like shrimp cocktail but given a shake-up with celery root and horseradish remoulade. The Maine Crab Imperial is served as house-made naan topped with crab, fennel, jalapeños, herbs and Gruyere. Black Sea Bass is served simply grilled or roasted or with a bouillabaisse, fresh fava beans and herbs.
The grilled New Jersey lamb chops are currently served with summer squash, smoked tomato and peach compote. All great NYC restaurants serve a burger and the Pierre burger is made with grass-fed beef, topped with grilled onions, spicy remoulade and Rupert cheese with a side of pommes frites.
TML is a big fan of Executive Pastry Chef Michael Mignano’s artistry. He delights his thousands of Instagram followers with images of delicious cakes, mousse, meringues, chocolates and more. His assemblies are not only beautiful to behold they are complex in construction and taste.
The Strawberry rhubarb pie comes with New York cheesecake ice cream. Not just any old crème brulee will do at one of Manhattan’s grand hotels; at Perrine it comes with candy bar bits. If it must be chocolate, I suspect every chocoholic would be satisfied with the double chocolate tart served with crunchy salted caramel ice cream.
When Charles Pierre opened the Pierre in 1930 he wanted something less flamboyant than it’s counterparts – the Beaux Arts opulence of the Plaza and the Art Deco Waldorf Astoria. He wanted elegant and discreet. Today, the Pierre is a 61st Street grande dame in the 21st century. We’re sure Monsieur Escoffier would be proud of Perrine too. Don’t they say, “Every thing old is new again”? http://www.perrinenyc.com/ http://www.thepierreny.com/