What is a steakhouse in Australia? Is it a pub with a grill out the back? Or a fine dining institution with starched white tablecloths and service to match? Is there a happy medium? Perhaps Brisbane’s Calida Argentinian Steak & Bar is just that.
In a city brimming with look-at-me dining rooms, Calida offers something more assured and less focused on decor. The decor is understated, designed not to distract but to draw your focus to what truly matters: the exceptional Australian produce on the plate and the world-class Aussie wine in the glass.
Vegans look away now
The Wine & Wagyu series gives a steakhouse like Calida in a tourist-friendly locale, such as Southbank, the opportunity to shine. And shine it did. The six-course menu, created by Head Chef Ajit Giri, spotlights exceptional Stanbroke and Diamantina beef, as well as a curated selection of Jim Barry wines, presented by Samuel Smith & Sons.
Each chapter of the series will be introduced with an intimate ticketed launch dinner for 14 guests, hosted in Calida’s semi-private dining space. The first in this 2025 series was a collaboration with the Barossa’s Yalumba. In September and October, Wirra Wirra wines, gentle reds, elegant rosés, and textured whites from McLaren Vale, will be on show.
Restaurant Manager Lorenzo Lo Re took us through the menu and the expressive, structured wines, carefully describing each course and how the particular Jim Barry wine, from Assyrtiko to Shiraz, worked with and complemented the five very different takes on Wagyu.
Tartare
In one way, Denver Cut Diamantina Wagyu MB 8-9 tartare on a tart with shaved cured egg yolk, smoked salmon caviar and burnt blood orange dust is quite the mouthful. In fact, it was more like three.
Carefully following Lorenzo’s instructions, we managed to get most of the burnt blood orange dust with each mouthful. Tartare is not for everyone, but this was petite, silky and a great way to introduce the Wagyu. The Jim Barry 2024 Assyrtiko was an inspired pairing. The crisp, mineral-driven Greek varietal worked its magic, cutting through the beef’s richness while adding another dimension to the tartare.
Lorenzo notes that this pairing wakes up the palate and signals that this won’t be a predictable, heavy steak dinner. It’s a lesson in contrast.
Pichana Tataki
In Argentina, rump cap is known as Picanha. The prized rump cap, renowned for its rich fat, was served lightly seared in the Japanese tataki style, preserving its texture. It allowed the fatty beefiness to take centre stage.
Although the Picanha barely needed accompaniment, the ponzu and saffron pickled nashi pear added zing and sweet crunch, while the paprika added a subtle warmth that enhanced the char. This second course could well have been the main event, but we still have four more to go.
Again, a bright white wine fitted the bill. The 2024 Jim Barry ‘Lodge Hill’ Riesling’s crisp acidity paired well with the smokiness of the paprika. A second white here is a confident choice.
Filete de Costilla
The fillet of the rib is a tender, flavourful cut, and it’s served simply with shallot puree, green oil and a jus made from the accompanying Malbec. The dish is a masterclass in precision.
The softer tannins and juicy, plush fruit of the 2022 Jim Barry ‘The Atherley’ Malbec work with the tender steak without overwhelming it. Nuanced, this red is pleasure in a glass.
Wagyu Brisket Parmentier
Comforting like a hug from Nana, this one seems simpler than it really is. The slow-braised, meltingly tender brisket sits underneath a mash that gains its richness from bone marrow – not cream. It’s polished, compact and magnificent.
A 2020 Jim Barry Single Vineyard ‘The Farm’ Cabernet Malbec is a classic blend, combining the structure of Cabernet with the richness of Malbec. The Story: This is the emotional heart of the meal. A pairing of equals. The deep, complex flavours of the braise are matched by a wine with the structure and depth to complement them.
Dry-aged Wagyu Sirloin
More classic steakhouse than the previous dishes, the 28-day dry aging gave the wagyu a decidedly different texture and nuttiness. The Dauphinoise was a demonstration of engineering skill, and the morel sauce added an earthy element.
I was surprised how much I enjoyed the 2021 Jim Barry Single Vineyard ‘Watervale’ Shiraz. From the Morrison’s Vineyard at Watervale (a cool vineyard site), it was elegant, restrained and a fine match.
Chocolate Pannacotta
Although I never order chocolate desserts, this was a fine finish to the wagyu menu. The intense, dark chocolate pannacotta served parfait-style was classically paired with raspberry gel and crunchy freeze-dried raspberries.
A big, dry red with dessert could be considered an odd choice or an excellent power move. The bold Jim Barry ‘Mcrae Wood’ Shiraz 2021 dark fruit echoes the raspberry, and the wine’s structure stands up to the bitterness of the dark chocolate. It’s made from grapes declassified from The Armagh and blended with fruit from special parcels from the family’s other Clare Valley vineyards.
Sadly, I won’t be able to catch the third Wine & Wagyu instalment. But I’m sure it will be an outrageous success with the fine service and attention to detail across another fabulous menu.
Wine & Wagyu with Jim Barry Wines, until August 31. For reservations, more information, and details on the ticketed dinner, please click here. 6:30 pm, Thursday, 7th August 2025 | $180pp | 6-course menu with paired wines | 14 seats.
