The Glamour of Italian Fashion at the Victoria and Albert Museum is currently staging the first in-depth examination of Italy’s overarching influence on the world of fashion since WW2. The exhibition charts the rise and fall of the epicentre of style and glamour that is Italian fashion.
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Rome became “Hollywood on the Tiber” in the late 1950s when American movie stars Ava Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor, and Audrey Hepburn filmed at the Cinecitta studios. They quickly fell for the luxurious fabrics and finely crafted designs. These stars gave the Hollywood imprimatur to the industry, and women around the world suddenly had an insatiable need for the latest Italian styles of Salvatore Ferragamo, Roberto Capucci, and Maria Grimaldi.
Courtesy of The Art Archive / Mondadori Portfolio / Marisa Rastellini
One of the exhibition’s highlights must be the sparkling Mila Schön ensemble worn by Lee Radziwill in 1966 to the ‘party of the decade’ –Truman Capote’s legendary Black and White Ball. The sleeveless dress has undulating stripes of silver sequins and bugle beads, and the matching matelassé coat features sequins on the collar and cuffs.
Rome became “Hollywood on the Tiber” in the late 1950’s when American movie stars Ava Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn filmed at the Cinecitta studios
Elizabeth Taylor’s passion for Bulgari’s exuberant designs is detailed in an installation devoted to the platinum, diamond, and emerald engagement gift from Richard Burton. Hollywood’s biggest star wore the necklace on her wedding day and is pictured here wearing the jewels when she attended the masked ball at Hotel Ca’Rezzonico, Venice, in 1967.
Many of the installations highlight the boldness of Italian fashion for both men and women – flamboyant silhouettes in daring colour ways with ornate embellishment.
The exhibition identifies many of the factors that contribute to the Italian fashion industry’s stellar status—expert textile production, the use of luxurious fabrics, and its prominence in stylish menswear and glamorous womenswear. It also showcases the vital importance of Italian traditional industries such as spinning, dyeing, weaving, cutting, and fine stitching.
Over 100 exquisite pieces from Italy’s most followed fashion houses, Gucci, Missoni, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Giorgio Armani, Pucci, and Versace are included. The next generation of ateliers, including Giambattista Valli and Valentino’s new designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, are also on display.
The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014 is on at the V&A until July 27, 2014. http://www.vam.ac.uk/
Featured Image: Valentino posing with models nearby Trevi Fountain. Rome, July 1967. Courtesy of The Art Archive / Mondadori Portfolio / Marisa Rastellini
