A great wine bar should have three things: sensational snacks, an irresistible wine list that makes you want to flirt with something new, and a sense of spontaneity. Woolloongabba’s Le Bon Bar does all that in an inviting, petite space that offers Parisian bonhomie without pretension.
Chef and owner Andy Ashby’s C’est Bon and Le Bon Bar aren’t new, but a recent makeover has made the front bar entrance …entrancing. Exposed brick on the left and a low-lit bar on the right set the mood. The seating layout has been updated, and the walls are a canvas for spare but thoughtful art. The building is in the heart of Woolloongabba, and its heritage reveals itself with multiple spaces, stairs to nowhere, and a rooftop better known as Ooh La La.
The Style
Wenge-coloured and decidedly French Thonet Bentwood stools contrast with the honey-hued, marble-topped bar. Dark timber floors, antique Champagne buckets and discreet lighting set the mood.
Sophie Hart Studio played a pivotal role in refreshing Le Bon Bar at C’est Bon, imbuing the space with a low-key French-inspired allure that harmonises with the overall restaurant. The result? A “fun local wine bar,” allowing for a smooth transition from a daytime café to a cozy, relaxed hangout in the evening.
Additionally, she included whimsical poster art and unique pieces, such as a captivating 1950s French beatnik painting sourced from an international antique dealer.
Think of it as your local; Somewhere, you can order a spritely Picpoul or plush pinot with substantial and delectable bites.
The Chef
When Andy Ashby arrived in Melbourne from his native New Zealand, he worked under Scott Pickett at the prestigious lakeside eatery in Albert Park—Point Restaurant. He was formerly Michael Crosbie’s sous chef at Thompson’s Reserve, which transformed into Salon de Co at Brisbane’s Ovolo Inchcolm. Andy also had stints at Qualia’s Pebble Beach and Long Pavilion and was sous chef to Nelly Robinson at her eponymous Nel Restaurant in Sydney.
He is a fierce champion of local producers, growers, and food artisans. His produce is consciously sourced and regionally grown. His bar menu pairs magnificently with a selection of wines-by-the-glass and cocktails curated by sommelier Miriam Rose.
The food and drinks
We sampled the La Connexion Mexicaine – a superb watermelon red mix of Tequila, rhubarb and lime in a Tajin-rimmed glass. Setting the adventurous mood upfront was Ouefs (French egg) with espellette and smoked caviar. Wild shot venison tartare crowned with glossy duck egg jam and wild garlic was whimsical, dramatic and undeniably delicious.
A cruller wigged with silky Moreton Bay Bug and soft herbs suitably showed off the delicate seafood. The fermented potato bread with jambon and a serious amount of Comte brings back fond memories of Parisian baguettes stuffed with the stuff.
2021 Sipp Mack Vieilles Vignes Sylvaner was suitably crisp, while the 2023 Felines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet was lip-smacking and stood up perfectly to the appetisers.
For dessert, there was a little touch of Queensland, with swirling ribbons of piped pineapple brûlée in an eclair that was both crisp and chewy.
Le Bon Bar is elegant but no fuss. It’s comfortable but surprising, with all the hallmarks of great wine bars. Service is impeccable. Come for something different and return again and again to your new favourite spot.
Disclaimer: TML were guests of Le Bon Bar.
