Grapes, not people.
Many Italian families have been happy contributors to the Aussie lifestyle for a century. They have brought magic in their presentation of food and wine and joy of life.
But their authentic grapes are a much later arrival.
Older Australians grew up with mostly French varieties, shiraz, cabernet, merlot, sauvignon blanc, semillon and chardonnay in their glasses.
That’s quite a lineup. By themselves or in blends.
Shouldn’t they be enough to keep us happy?
Fortunately, our local wine people have always been restless. Without the tight rules that hold European winemakers to grow only certain varieties in a certain way in certain areas and so consistently deliver much lauded and recognisable styles, our teams are free to experiment; to try new ways with old favourites and to bring in new players.
It takes time. Imported vines must go through a lengthy quarantine period, and even when approved, propagated and planted, they don’t hand you a glass overnight.
So it was many years ago that some of our bravest wine entrepreneurs decided to branch out and begin the process to bring in new varieties, prompted by gems they tasted and enjoyed in Europe.
Like Italy.
Their devotion is now paying off. Italian names we couldn’t recognise ten years ago are now appearing on more and more local labels. We are so glad they have taken the long view.
I should be ashamed, but why waste an opportunity to serve a gentle pun because one of our favourites championing these wines is Longview.
Juno Rosato 2025 (RRP $28).
This is a blend of Nebbiolo and Pinot Nero from Longview at Macclesfield in the Adelaide Hills. To the eye, it is a perfect pink tending towards coppery rather than pale crimson. To the nose, you’ll find lovely light red fruits; cherries, raspberries and hints of orange peel. Delicious and refreshing with great length for a rosé, sorry rosato. Not the sharpness of some cheaper Provence wines, but with a genuine depth of soft fruits allowed to ripen nicely. We love the twist on the finish with a lick of lemon. Delightful.
Saturnus Nebbiolo 2023 (RRP $60)
In its home in the north west of Italy, this grape produces the fabulously expensive and long-lived Barolo with a scent described as ‘tar and roses.’.
Longview Wines has had a passion for Italy’s ‘King of Grapes’. They first planted their vines in South Australia in 1995. Although young, this pours not as a deep purple crimson, but as a lighter garnet red with hints of tan, typical of this grape. But don’t think it’s a mild wine. Heaps of sturdy, luscious flavour, floral with a mass of spicy berries. Medium-bodied but long and rewarding with noticeable tannins but not harshness. Great wine with red meats.
Jupiter Barbera 2024 (RRP $40)
Several reviewers have hailed this as the best barbera in the country. We’ll join the queue. Immediately appealing in colour as it pours, this is how red wine should look. Instant aroma of deep dark fruit. Medium-bodied, presenting spiciness over all sorts of red fruit like cranberry and mulberry. We were happy to savour at length, relishing the bright acidity and fine tannins, maintaining freshness and lingering on the palate.
In these disconcerting times, we like to buy Australian as much as possible. Longview Wines now gives us a way to support our local team but enjoy a dance with the Old World as well.
