Some might think Supernormal Brisbane is the next chapter of Melbourne’s famed restaurant. While it bears the name and some menu items have made the trip north, it is altogether different. The ninth venue for Chef Andrew McConnell and partner Jo McGann’s Trader House is elegant and much more than meets the eye.
When word first got out in 2022, impresario McConnell’s first interstate foray would be a Brisbane Supernormal, the River City paid attention. Trader House is known for an award-winning roster of Melbourne’s finest dining and bars, including Cumulus Inc, Gimlet at Cavendish House, and The Builders Arms,
Two years and many delays later, the more casual Bar Miette arrived in June, shortly followed by Supernormal in the 443 Queen St development. Tucked into one of Brisbane’s most striking (and controversial) new buildings, the restaurant overlooks the Maiwar (Brisbane) River and the Story Bridge.
Supernormal Brisbane joins other Melbourne imports, Guy Grossi’s Settimo and Adrian Richardson’s BŌS, as well as institutions Lune Croisanterie and Baker D Chirico in a well-considered move to the Sunshine State.
Chef Jason Barratt, a Melbourne native, is at the helm. He most recently ran the kitchen at Paper Daisy in Cabarita after Rae’s on Watego in Byron. The menu clearly shows that he’s made great connections with local producers.
Vince Alafaci and Caroline Choker of ACME worked with McConnell and McGann on the design for Apollo Inn and Gimlet. But it couldn’t be any more different than Melbourne’s Supernormal industrial minimalism with neon cherries. The 150-seater is flooded with light through floor-to-ceiling glass, and there is outdoor seating under eau-de-nil umbrellas on the terrace for 80.
Instead, at Supernormal Brisbane, it’s all caramel leather banquettes, flashes of gold, potted palms, rattan chairs, pleated bamboo light shades, green peppered terrazzo floors, marble, and lots of mirrors. It’s opulent but classy, design-forward but with a nod to grand dining rooms of the past.
Modern Asian, pan-Asian, call it what you like, the menu is filled with classics that have had a re-do. Sure, New England Lobster Rolls, Wagyu ribeye and fries are not Asian staples. But maybe it’s a subtle homage to the pioneering Chinese restauranteurs who always had a steak or chops alongside Sweet and Sour Pork and Lemon Chicken on their Australian Cantonese menus.
After enjoying one of our top three martinis of all time at another Melbourne Trader House venue, Apollo Inn, we had to begin with the SN Martini. The signature martini is made with a unique Applewood gin (made to reflect the menu’s flavours), Americano Bianco, and kombu. It is a new classic.
Moreton Bay bug toast is the new prawn toast. Raw scallop with ginger, wigs a black-green seaweed cracker studded with sesame, and for this carnivore, these seafood appetisers tick all the boxes.
The comprehensive drinks list details many of the cocktails and wines. From non-alcoholic libations to storied imports and great Aussie wines, the best of the best are all there, along with some outstanding surprises. A glass of 2022 Besson Petit Chablis Chardonnay from Burgundy is nuanced and delightful.
Supernormal Melbourne’s lobster roll is not merely a fan favourite; it has rightfully earned the title iconic. She’s petite. Three bites, and she’s gone. Ah, but what three bites they are: buttery lobster tail on a buttered brioche bun topped with a touch of sweetness from Kewpie mayo and watercress for frill.
We continue sharing each plate. Up next is another dish that has travelled north—crispy, salt-cured duck that’s spiced and twice cooked. Surprise. Surprise. The Maryland is not laminated to glossiness. Instead, it’s matte and the colour of drinking chocolate. It’s served with spongy but delightful ‘bread’ discs designed for slicking the hoisin-style sauce and acidic black vinegar.
Our waiter, Chris, suggested a red with a big backstory. Jimmy, our sommelier, is also a backyard winemaker who crafts fine vino in his shed in his spare time. The grapes for his 2024 Adlib Wine x Mighty Isle ‘True’Pinot Noir/Shiraz hale from McLaren Vale. Not only is it perfect with the duck, but it also shines with lobster.
The half lobster special is plied with chilli butter and grilled to perfection, with only chives for garnish. It is classy and delicious. The sesame cucumber, ginger, and white soy salad is a superb foil for the rich lobster meat.
We look at the dessert menu for research purposes only. Still, the aforementioned Jimmy tempts with the suggestion of an NV Lustau Pedro Ximénez, Jerez ESP, to pair with the Valrhona chocolate, caramelised miso, peanuts, and sesame. Who are we to argue?
Wisely, we share the silky, dark chocolate that does its best to masquerade as mousse until the peanuts crunch. I never order chocolate for dessert, but this is nothing short of sublime.
We adjourn to the bar to take some more pictures, and our barman, Animesh, says we might need a digestif—something dark and mysterious like an Amaro. We each sip a half-pour of the local Loborn from the Scenic Rim. It’s scarlet in the glass and bittersweet in the best possible way.
Supernormal Brisbane was never imagined as Part Two. As an Andrew McConnell restaurant, it’s inimitable, with each plate thoughtful and filled with exquisite flavours. The professional service is of an outstanding standard: attentive without intrusion, personalized yet discreet. Quite simply, it’s a standout. It is a standalone restaurant unlike anything seen in Brisbane before.
Disclaimer: This Magnificent Life was hosted by Supernormal Brisbane.
